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Main Title: Structural Analysis of a Modern o/w-Emulsion Stabilized by a Polyglycerol Ester Emulsifier and Consistency Enhancers
Author(s): Dahl, Verena
Friedrich, Achim
Meyer, Jürgen
Venzmer, Joachim
Belkoura, Lhoussaine
Strey, Reinhard
Mayer, Christian
Michel, Raphael
Gradzielski, Michael
Type: Article
Language Code: en
Abstract: The aim of our work was to study the structure of a typical modern cosmetic oil-in-water emulsion (o/w-emulsion), based on the emulsifier polyglyceryl-3 dicitrate/stearate and glycerylstearate/stearyl alcohol as consistency enhancer. We have used a systematic approach building up the cosmetic emulsion step by step, characterizing all systems by using Small Angle Neutron Scattering (SANS), Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC), Freeze Fracture Transmission Electron Microscopy (FF-TEM), light microscopy and rheology. The starting point was the pure emulsifier in water, which was shown to form lamellar stacked bilayers with a spacing of 7 nm, coexisting with polydisperse unilamellar vesicles in the sub-µm range. Upon addition of consistency enhancer, also multilamellar vesicles could be obtained. Then, oil has been added stepwise, until finally a complete cosmetic o/w-emulsion was obtained. In the final emulsion, oil droplets with sizes in the µm range are surrounded by multiple, irregularly spaced bilayer structures and vesicles. Approximately 30% of the water present in the system shows a restricted mobility (“encapsulated water”) according to PFG-NMR. Crucial for the viscosity build-up is the presence of the oil droplets; a cream-like consistency is obtained by steric interaction of oil droplets and crystalline bilayer structures in the aqueous phase of the emulsion.
Issue Date: 18-Jan-2018
Date Available: 16-Sep-2019
DDC Class: 540 Chemie und zugeordnete Wissenschaften
Subject(s): emulsion
electron microscopy
PFG-NMR spectroscopy
Journal Title: Colloids and Interfaces
Publisher: MDPI
Publisher Place: Basel
Volume: 2
Issue: 1
Article Number: 3
Publisher DOI: 10.3390/colloids2010003
EISSN: 2504-5377
Appears in Collections:FG Physikalische Chemie / Molekulare Materialwissenschaften » Publications

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